Think Thailand and you think of pristine blue waters lapping at long curves of beaches, coral reefs teeming with rainbow coloured fish; purple orchids and white lotus; rubies, emeralds and sapphires; beautiful women with shy smiles; saffron robed monks with walk mans and cell phones, temple spires reaching up to touch the heavens; golden Buddhas in serene repose; swaying elephants; the cacophony and chaos of the twentieth century. All frozen together in a time warp.